73. Grapeseed
For Mother’s Day this year, I took my mom out to dinner. Kidding! Actually for Mother’s Day, I had my mom take me out to dinner. I am a sister on a mission after all. Since we were a little late in the reservation game and didn’t feel like spending $100 a person on buffet brunch, we ended up at #73 on our hit parade, Grapeseed. Being a Bethesda-area native, I have stared at Grapeseed from the California Tortilla patio across the street many times, but have never been. Inside, the layout is a little haphazard but is wine bar chic throughout. We scored a table by the front window which was great for people watching. There were a few tables by the open kitchen (which seemed like they would be very hot), and the rest were either banquets along a long hallway or inside an auxiliary room by the bathrooms. If possible, try and sit up front.
Since we were dining on St. Mama Day, they served a special fixed menu instead of the normal a la carte deal. I’m never a fan of fixed menus since they tend to have less than exciting options, but this one was better than most. There were two starter courses of shared plates—the appetizer of grilled asparagus and pita with skordalia (hummus-like), and the pasta course of gnocchi in tomato sauce and penne putanesca. Aside from the asparagus, which was kind of a throwaway, all the starters were very good. I especially like the skordalia and the homemade pita that came with it, since it reminded me of (though paled in comparison to) Komi. The gnocchi were plump and light, though the sauce had a bit of a Chef Boyardee feeling to it. And the penne was tasty and very anchovy heavy, so probably not a winner with everyone at our table.
For our main courses, we had between the three of us Shrimp Creole, Halibut with Mushrooms, and Roast Chicken with Italian Sausage and Balsamic. The winner of the three was definitely the chicken. Even though it was a weird hodgepodge of chicken, Italian sausage, balsamic reduction and mashed potatoes it was still a hodgepodge of tasty flavors. Sort of like a chemistry experiment gone very right. The shrimp was smoky without being over the top spicy, and the halibut preparation was good if a little hackneyed.
Though Grapeseed is more the old hard of hearing uncle to the hip and lively Mendocino Grille or Cork, it serves Bethesda well. Being a wine bar, we did spring for the pairings that accompanied our meal. We never actually knew what our wines were though since our waitress either failed to mention them when she plopped them down, or mumbled their names and walked away. All were good, though we thought they were served way too cold. Grapeseed did not end on an high note though, since the desserts seemed like throwaways. Chocolate pudding (which looked about as appetizing as dog poop), almond pound cake and a fruit bowl do not a patisserie make. Stick to the wine and wine-friendly foods and all will be right with the world.
